Ankarsrum Original Review

This stand mixer stands out from the others as the bowl rotates on the stand while the attachments remain stationary. The primary attachment is a dough roller connected to an adjustable arm. As a result, the kneading action occurs without the motor bearing much of the burden. If whipping is your goal, this machine employs two whisks that circle the bowl in a triple whipping action. Unfortunately, this machine isn't easy to learn how to use, even if you've used other standing mixers in the past.

Performance Comparison

Ease of Use

As the name implies, the ease of use metric evaluates the machine's user experience, from taking it out of the cupboard to putting it back in. While the Ankarsrum Original shines in user interface and cleanliness, overall, it performs average for the class. To assess the machine, we look at the dials controlling operation, the sturdiness (how does it behave at high RPMs?), and, perhaps most importantly, is it easy to keep clean. Finally, we rate the unit for the overall user experience, primarily focusing on the gap between the attachments and bowl and the noise output.

The main appeal of the Ankarsrum Original is that it has a huge open-top bowl and the power to mix large quantities of dough. This ample space results in fewer spills and quicker clean-up. As far as sturdiness is concerned, the main unit and metal bowl are bombproof. However, the plastic mixing bowl is somewhat flimsy and distorts when mixing heavy ingredients, and more concerning are the plastic gears on the whisk attachments that are prone to failure under heavy loads. One shredded and became unusable. The base is heavy enough to stay put, and at 85.5 dBA, it is pretty loud by comparison to others in the class.

Two key findings in the overall user experience assessment focused on the bowl/attachment gap and noise. First, the Ankarsrum Original's attachments fit wonderfully and require little spatula work from the user. This outcome is mainly due to the unique and effective sidewall scraper fitted to the main bowl. Conversely, at 85.5 dBA, this is one of the loudest machines in the class.

Mixing

Our set of mixing tests involved mixing ingredients of a cowboy cookie recipe, frosting for cakes, and incorporating all the ingredients for pizza dough. Kneading was assessed separately (see below). Given the large size of the bowl and the untraditional mixing method it employs, the machine did not perform well. For example, our pizza dough recipe calls for mixing with the dough hook, and the unit's unique dough hook does not perform well in such applications.

Another issue with this machine is that the manufacturer does not provide suggested methods to achieve desired outcomes. Most of the other models in our review of top-ranked stand mixers provide such information, which is invaluable. Proper usage of the Ankarsrum is not intuitive, and the lack of guidance from the manufacturer requires experimentation to release the full capabilities of this unorthodox machine.

Whipping

Whipping is one of those tasks that are hard to do by hand and generally separates professional outcomes from the rest. The Ankarsrum's powerful motor and continuous speed-setting dial promote high-quality whipping. The mixing system uses two-wire whisks that rotate individually on their axes while orbiting the bowl. This action whips up egg whites and cream to splendid effect. However, as discussed above, this action requires one to bear the second bowl and the mixer attachments.

The whipping metric made use of cake, cookie, and frosting recipes, and while we make all of our assessments as objective as possible, the whipping is the most quantifiable of the lot. The evaluation measures the increase in volume produced from whipping a half cup of cream and the amount of rise observed in a cooled cake, which directly relates to how well the eggs were aerated when whipped.

Kneading

The main appeal of the Ankarsrum Original is that it has a huge bowl and the power to mix and knead large quantities of dough. The ample space leaves plenty of room for the dough to rise in the bowl or double recipes. Unlike other models in the class with smaller bowl capacities, the Original allows the dough to rise in place and be kneaded periodically with the turn of a dial. The whole system is pretty sweet when one gets the hang of it.

The kneading metric relied solely on the machine's ability to work pizza dough. We also made sourdough and sandwich bread. The later two doughs were informal tests, but they went a long way to show why this machine has been a standby for serious bakers for so long. The Ankarsrum Original's unique roller arm allows more dough to be worked in a fashion similar to manual kneading.

Should You Buy the Ankarsrum Original?

In the world of stand mixers, the Ankarsrum is a bit of a black sheep. The mixing action is produced by rotating the bowl instead of the mixing attachment. The primary attachments connect on an arm that swivels across the bowl opening so that you can position the attachments to accommodate a range of needs. In this configuration, the mixer shines. Unfortunately, many of the mixing needs of the home cook require the use of a second bowl and attachments. As such, we see this machine as a specialty item that will appeal to a narrow group of dedicated home bakers.

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